My Chinatown!

By Katie Chung July 8, 2005[1]

 

Chinatown, Philadelphia - it’s the one thing that has remained a constant throughout my entire life. To anyone else who walks the streets of this small community, it may seem like any other Chinatown in any other state, but to me it’s like a second home. I know the streets of this small “city within a city” like the back of my hand. Every new pothole, new restaurant, destroyed building, closed shop does not go unnoticed in my eyes. The smell of greasy Chinese food, leftover red firecracker paper scattered across the ground, grocers selling live crabs on the sidewalks – these are among the things that make this place a familiar home to me.

Almost once a month my family, which consists of my mother, father, younger brother and I, undertake a lengthy car ride from our hometown of Marlborough, Massachusetts to this paradise. Near the end of our five-hour expedition we cross the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, which indicates that we have crossed from Camden, NJ into the city of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. When my brother and I were much younger we would look out over the edges of this bridge as our car crossed and imagine that our Yeh-Yeh (or grandfather) was looking for us at that exact moment out his window, waiting for us to arrive at his house, and we would - much to my father’s annoyance – yell and scream out the windows that we’d “be there real soon”. As our car would leave the bridge, speeding down Vine Street, we would become more and more anxious waiting to see the mural right outside the boundaries of Chinatown, which assured my brother and I that we were less then minutes from entering my grandparents familiar home after the endless car ride.

Soon my dad would pull onto Winter Street, parking our exhausted car in front of 1008A - or my Yeh-Yeh and Ma-ma’s two family home on the outskirts of Chinatown. As we descend the stairs to the iron gate door we pass the melon garden my grandfather was so proud of, and the two chairs where my grandparents would regularly sit enjoying conversations with one another. Once we open the door, my grandparents would wake up and sleepily hobble downstairs to greet us upon our arrival.

To this day as I step across the threshold of that house, an overpowering smell of grease and Chinese food seems to overwhelm my nostrils. Throughout the three decades of my family’s inhabitance at 1008A, the smell of my grandmother’s excellent cooking seems to have clung to everything there, stubbornly burying itself into the fabric and walls, relentless to leave or be washed away.

My Ma-ma’s cooking always smells and tastes even more spectacular when the entire extended family, of more than twenty-five people, is visiting. She would work for hours preparing: cooking the fish, Chinese broccoli, roast pork, chicken and ginger, rice, and duck to perfection. When she finally was finished, the entire family would gather around a large circular kitchen table, which is the central object of the entire downstairs. My Yeh-Yeh and Ma-ma would sit down, during which as one of my many aunts would scoop rice into red Chinese bowls and serve it to everyone at the table. Once the whole family was served, everyone – adults and children alike – would jump in and attack their favorite foods, grabbing all of the best parts to put in their bowls. My younger cousins would constantly fight over who was allowed to eat the fish eyes, which are considered a delicacy.

This great table holds more then just the memories of our family feasts. After all the dishes are washed and stashed away, and every scrap of food is eaten by some hungry person, my grandfather would take out the mahjong tiles (which is a Chinese game using tiles with different symbols on it), and my aunts and uncles would join him in gambling away their money. When we were younger, this game was always so captivating to my cousins and me. We would constantly sit and watch the game and pretend we knew how to play, or “help” out one of the players, even though none of us remotely knew how to play the game. Every time my family would play the game, my grandfather would share his winnings with his grandchildren. He’d give us “lucky money” – which was money that he had won during that round of the game - for giving him luck while he played, and being children, we’d immediately run out the door to the corner candy shop, Tuck Hing. However, in the past year, when my grandfather was severely ill, it seemed that the tiles would only make a rare appearance at family parties. Now, though, the mahjong table never comes out. Since my grandfather’s death in March 2005 no one seems in the mood to rejoice in an after dinner gambling spree, preferring instead to sit and talk or watch the Weather Channel – which seems to always be on in my grandmother’s home.

Outside of 1008A, there are many things that reveal my memory and my love for this little community. The Chinese language is all that is spoken in the vicinity of this small city, the sounds of Cantonese and Mandarin fill the streets along with the beeping of the traffic on Tenth Street and the local grocer men shouting prices along the sidewalks to attract customers. I smell the ducks and chickens cooking in the windows of the shops, the stench of the seafood waiting in buckets to be bought, and the smell of the polluted air from the cars as they pass by. I can see the large, dirty, old, dilapidated buildings, trip over the crumbling, deteriorated sidewalks, and watch the people as they fight for the precious parking spaces that line Tenth Street – the central street through Chinatown.

I will occasionally take walks with my grandmother through the streets. In this city she is treated like a queen, everyone comes up to greet her and speedily talk in his or her slurred Cantonese. With her I feel like a princess, she introduces me as her granddaughter to everyone she talks to, saying I’m the “daughter of first son”. Most will smile and nod, not knowing how to communicate with someone who only speaks English, but every now and then one of these people will exclaim in their broken English how great it is to meet the “daughter of first son”. Near the end of our walk we usually stop with a trip to my grandfather’s favorite restaurant, The Imperial Inn, located almost in the dead center of the Chinatown community.

When my family would visit there, it would always be an outing to this great restaurant. My grandfather used to work with the owners, so our family would get primary seating over other customers, straight to the best tables. The manager would constantly make my brother and I free Shirley Temples with little umbrellas and swords, which we would always play with. As we have grown, and our visits to The Imperial have lessened we no longer receive these free treats, instead we are treated as adults and must use chop sticks, instead of the fork and knife routine we are used to at home.

There are many Chinatowns across the United States, but this one Chinatown is special to me; more then anyone could ever know. Some may think that it is funny for me to refer to a dirty, unkempt, partially run down couple of streets as a paradise. But Chinatown holds, within its boundaries, the most memories, the best family moments, and the happiest and saddest recollections of my life. This is where I can look back on my life as I have grown up and see how I’ve changed. This is where I have watched my brother grow up too, turning from an annoying little two year old to a mature young adult. My Ma-ma and Yeh-Yeh two family house of 1008A Winter Street holds my life story within its walls. The streets of Chinatown hold all the smells and tastes that trigger so many memories for me. Chinatown, Philadelphia is not just any other Chinatown, it’s my Chinatown.

       

 




[1] This essay was written as a class assignment for Urban Landscapes – Bryn Mawr